14 Ways To Eat Bacalhau In Portugal

It's impossible to escape the smell of fish in Portugal. The odor wafts from sidewalk eateries, bustling markets, and even grocery store aisles. But it's not just any fish perfuming the air. Despite enjoying sea bass, bream, and sardines, it's bacalhau — preserved salt-dried cod — that reigns supreme as the country's favorite aquatic delicacy. Though not officially named a national dish or making it onto the list of the seven wonders of Portuguese gastronomy, bacalhau is a cornerstone of Portuguese cuisine. A popular saying even states that there are more than 365 bacalhau dishes, one for every day of the year.

The country's love affair with salted cod dates back to the 15th century, during the Age of Discovery. At that time, Portuguese explorers discovered plentiful cod reserves in Newfoundland and salted the fish to preserve it for the long voyage home. The cod trade boomed in the subsequent centuries, initially relying on English imports until Portugal began sourcing fish from Newfoundland and Norway in the mid-19th century.

Given just how many bacalhau dishes there are, understanding the most popular preparations will help guide your culinary explorations. From creamy gratins, such as bacalhau com natas and bacalhau espiritual, to fried treats like pataniscas and bolinhos, this guide serves up 14 ways to eat bacalhau during your next trip to Portugal.

Despite the relatively mild weather on the Iberian peninsula, the Portuguese still crave hearty fare during the winter. One such cold-weather comfort food is bacalhau com natas (salted cod with cream). Resembling a gratin, bacalhau com natas is an oven-baked casserole that's a Christmas mainstay throughout the country. The Portuguese love it not only because it's delicious and filling, but also for its practicality. It requires less cod than other dishes, making it perfect for using up leftovers or feeding a crowd. It's made with cod flakes, sauteed onions, fried diced potatoes, a homemade fish-infused Béchamel sauce, and fresh cream seasoned with nutmeg, pepper, and salt. The ingredients are combined in a baking dish, sprinkled with a blend of Parmesan and mozzarella, and baked until golden brown.

Like many classic Portuguese dishes, the origins of bacalhau com natas are murky. Some attribute it to João Ribeiro, a chef working in upscale Portuguese hotels in the 1930s, who experimented with cod and cream dishes during his tenure and is known for creating a similar dish called Bacalhau à Conde da Guarda.

Bacalhau espiritual translates to "spiritual codfish." Unfortunately, we can't guarantee that eating this dish will lead to enlightenment, but we can attest to its deliciousness. A relatively recent addition to Portugal's culinary canon, it was invented in 1947 by Countess de Almeida Araújo. The countess developed the dish for the inauguration of Cozinha Velha, a newly opened restaurant in the National Palace of Queluz. She took her inspiration from French cuisine. More specifically, it was borrowed from brandade de morue, a bistro classic consisting of a puree of salt cod, milk, olive oil, garlic, and cream.

In combining French culinary expertise with local ingredients, the countess created this unmistakably rich dish. Despite its lofty origins, bacalhau espiritual is fairly straightforward, both in terms of ingredients and preparation. It features flaked cod loins, grated carrots, Béchamel sauce, and milk-soaked bread, topped with grated cheese and baked into a gratin. You can find this dish in nearly every Portuguese restaurant and even in the frozen foods section of the grocery store. It's usually served with a simple salad or some sauteed vegetables.

Portuguese rice dishes may not have the same international reputation as risotto or biryani, but they hold their own when it comes to flavor. For example, there's arroz de pato (duck rice), a combination of slow-cooked duck, chorizo, and port wine. Then there's arroz de lingueirão, a seafood rice featuring razor clams. And it's no surprise that bacalhau, Portugal's beloved salt cod, features prominently in a local rice dish.

Arroz de bacalhau starts with local carolino rice, a short-grain variety similar to Italian Arborio rice. Its high starch content gives it a creamy texture that's perfect for soaking up all of the flavors in this dish. When it comes to the other star ingredient, bacalhau, shredded or leftover fish works well since everything is mixed. Besides rice and fish, arroz de bacalhau typically features plum tomatoes, onions, and garlic. However, some variations call for vegetables as diverse as peppers, cauliflower, and peas. In keeping with Portuguese tradition, a drizzle of olive oil before serving is the crucial last step.

Whether grilled, roasted, or boiled, Portuguese bacalhau takes many forms. Add fried to that list and you're in for a treat: bolinhos de bacalhau, also known as bite-sized cod fritters. Before continuing, it's worth noting that the term bolinho is used in Northern Portugal, whereas pastéis de bacalhau (cod pastries) is more common in Central and Southern Portugal. Regardless of where you find yourself in Portugal, these delectable morsels appear in bars and cafes as a snack and even in upscale restaurants as a side dish to rice and salad.

Made from shredded cod, mashed potatoes, egg, and parsley, bolinhos de bacalhau are shaped into small, egg-shaped dumplings and fried until crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The main ingredients are fairly consistent, but plenty of chefs and home cooks play around with the ratios. Some prefer more cod than potatoes, while others use equal amounts of both. Additionally, some add nutmeg, milk, port wine, and even green chilis for a subtle twist on the classic.

Transforming leftovers into new dishes is a common culinary practice around the world. The English remix Sunday lunch into bubble and squeak, Italians turn day-old risotto into arancini, and Mexicans transform stale tortillas into chilaquiles. The Portuguese also embrace this innovative and thrifty tradition, particularly when it comes to repurposing Christmas Eve leftovers.

A dish originating in Northern Portugal's Minho region, roupa-velha, or "old clothes," breathes new life into leftover bacalhau from Christmas Eve dinner, turning it into a whole new meal for Christmas lunch. The name isn't particularly appetizing, but it accurately reflects the colorful mix of textures and flavors present. Although initially associated with families of modest means, this practical dish has become a cherished part of Christmas for Portuguese households of all backgrounds. That's likely due in part to the simple preparation and tasty outcome. All it requires is sauteeing leftover fish with a combination of vegetables (most often carrots, Portuguese kale, and leeks), boiled eggs, and spices. Many families eat it as a main dish, although some pair it with turkey or goat.

Translated as "cod with everything," this varied dish demands no compromises. Originally served as a Christmas meal under the name bacalhau da consoada, its roots trace back to Portugal's Catholic heritage, which forbade meat consumption near religious holidays. As a result, fish, especially cod, became popular during the festive season. More specifically, this dish likely emerged in Northern Portugal during the Estado Novo dictatorship. The regime championed frugality and simplicity as national virtues and this modest dish perfectly symbolized those values.

Although it began as a seasonal tradition, these days you'll find it in Portuguese homes year-round. Preparing it doesn't require any special kitchen skills, but the timing can be tricky with all the moving parts. One part involves boiling cod loins with potatoes, carrots, and sliced Portuguese cabbage. Separately, eggs are hard-boiled and chickpeas are heated. Finally, everything is assembled on the plate and drizzled with a simple vinaigrette made from olive oil, white vinegar, and garlic.

By this point, it should be pretty clear that the Portuguese have a deep love for bacalhau. But if you need more convincing, consider the fact that they have not one, but two recipes for cod fritters. Besides bolinhos de bacalhau, there are also pataniscas de bacalhau. Though bolinhos and pataniscas are similar in many ways, they differ in that pataniscas are made with wheat flour instead of potatoes. This swap results in a fritter that's flatter and drier, but no less delicious.

These fried delights are thought to have originated in Estremadura, a historical Portuguese province situated around Lisbon. Usually, you'll find them served as a snack in bars alongside a local lager such as Sagres or Super Bock. However, restaurants also pair them with bean or tomato rice to create a main dish. Historically, they were tucked into bread rolls to create sandwiches, although the popularity of this preparation seems to be fading.